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Fall Steelheading in Alaska | How To Articles
FALL
STEELHEADING IN ALASKA
or
THE
BEGINNINGS IN OBSESSION
By Mark Hieronymus
During October, as the
coho run starts to wane, many anglers hang up their gear for the
year or book expensive trips to exotic resorts to cast at fish with
unpronounceable names. Many folks clean out their fly boxes and
reminisce about the fun-filled fishing of summer, wondering when the
first thaw of spring will allow them back on their rivers in pursuit
of their piscine quarries once more.
Other anglers begin to
get a little twitchy around these fall days, and some even mumble
epithets at the cohos, wishing them gone or at least diminished so
they can begin their fishing season. Who are these folks, these
die-hard fishers that angle well into November and some cases even
into December, you ask?
They are the fall
steelhead addicts. They venture forth in the fall, clad head to toe
in Gore-Tex and insulating layers, to chase the very highest star in
the Alaska fly angling constellation. Content with counting a single
hookup a day as a success, accepting of the fact that the hours of
light are rapidly decreasing as the season goes on, able and willing
to deal with iced-up guides, frozen digits and stiff fly lines, these
folks are a breed apart, as are the fish they so avidly pursue.
MEET THE FISH
Alaska's steelhead
populations fall into two discrete categories, Fall run and Spring
run. Both spawn in the spring then return to saltwater, with the fall
fish overwintering in their natal streams. In some systems, the fall
run begins as early as August, but the bulk of the return statewide
occurs from late September to mid-November. In most of Alaska's
two-run steelhead streams the fall run is the smaller of the two -
lesser known, fewer fish, less fishing pressure. In some locations,
however, the fall run is the dominant run and sometimes the only run
of steelhead the stream receives.
Fall steelhead occur in
many regions of the state, most notably on Kodiak Island and the
Alaska Peninsula, with some streams on the Kenai Peninsula and
Southeast Alaska also hosting runs. Some of these streams are
well-known or easily discovered, but many streams in these areas have
small fall runs known only to a few select anglers. For many, this is
the real joy of angling: the process of discovery and the finding of
new water when everyone else is at home.
Unlike salmon, which die
after spawning, most steelhead survive to return to the ocean after
the spawn. One of the consequences of this trait is that they
maintain a high level of wariness in freshwater, unlike the "spawn
zombies" that most salmon species morph into. This wariness
needs to be taken into account when angling for steelhead, as they
can be extremely skittish and easily spooked. Take care not to wade
too deep, try to blend into your background, and avoid excessive
motion when casting to sighted fish and you will have a greater
chance of success with these "fish of 10,000 casts".
TECHNIQUES
For the purposes of
brevity, all steelhead presentation methods can be broken down into
two types: Swinging and Dead-Drifting. Within each of these two
presentation philosophies there are a multitude of disciplines, and
many different ways of going about each, but in the end, you are
either swinging your offering through the holding water of choice or
presenting it "dead" at the natural current speed.
Swinging flies for
anadromous fish is a classic technique, and as the name implies, it
involves "swinging" a fly through a section of holding
water using sink-tip or full sinking lines to present the offering
either above or in front of fish. The archetypal swing presentation
starts at the head or top of a portion of holding water with the
angler positioned about knee-deep in the current. The fly is cast
across the pool and at a 30-50° angle downstream from the angler and
allowed to swing through the water. The presentation is finished when
the fly is directly downstream of the angler; upon reaching this
point, line is retrieved, the angler takes a step downstream, and the
process is repeated. Sounds simple, doesn't it?
As simple as it sounds,
it can be a complex, nuanced dance with the changing currents and
depths of the pool. In the ideal swinging situation, the current is
slower to the inside or angler's side of the pool, and the pool is
uniform in its depth gradient from midcurrent to shoreline. However,
"ideal pools" are few and far between in Alaska, and to
swing a fly in a less-than-ideal situation an angler needs to have a
basic command of mending and line control to present the fly
properly.
For neophytes, the most
common trap in the swinging technique is rushing the presentation.
When done patiently, an angler can "cut" the holding water
with their fly into step-sized arcs, effectively covering the entire
pool from top to bottom. Moving too far or too fast between casts can
leave gaps in this coverage, leading to missed opportunities as the
fly is presented too far ahead of or behind the fish. Another symptom
of rushing the swing is picking up the fly before it completes its
arc, coming to rest directly below the angler. Often, interested fish
will follow the swinging fly all the way to the end of its arc before
striking, and occasionally will hit after almost a minute of
"hang-down" time. Let the fly fish all the way to the end
of the swing, then pause for awhile before beginning the cycle over
again - the results may surprise you.
Dead-drifting, also
referred to as nymphing, is another popular technique for presenting
a fly to holding fish. In this technique, the fly is cast straight
across or slightly upstream of the angler and allowed to drift "dead"
with the current, usually near the river bottom. Dead-drifting is
usually performed with a floating line and a weighted fly meant to
imitate either local insect nymph stages (hence, "Nymphing")
or various other forms of organic matter found in riparian
environments, such as salmon eggs or flesh. The ideal dead-drift
keeps the fly on a parallel path in the current to maintain a
life-like presentation of the offering,
One of the most common
pitfalls of the dead-drifting technique is excessive movement of the
fly. In some situations this cannot be helped, but in most fishing
scenarios the "life-like" illusion can be destroyed by too
much line drag, causing your offering to go zipping around all
willy-nilly. As a general rule, salmon eggs and tiny insects don't
swim fast or at all in the natural environment, and these motions
might set up red flags for wary fish eyeing a potential meal. To
combat line drag, mend upstream immediately after the cast, and then
as needed to keep your offering moving at the same speed as the
current.
Dead-drifting can be
accomplished with or without the use of a strike indicator, a small
float placed on the leader and intended to aid in the detection of
subtle takes. Recently, the trend has been to abandon all pretense of
"indicator" and treat the device as a bobber to maintain
presentation depth. To achieve a dead-drift with this type of setup,
the angler need only to mend line to the indicator to prevent it from
dragging in the current. Useful in many situations, the
"bobber-cator" can also be a hindrance, occasionally
spooking skittish fish in shallow, clear water.
EQUIPMENT: RODS, REELS,
LINES, FLIES
Selecting
a rod for steelhead can be a confusing process, so let's cut to the
chase and come out with the bad news - there isn't "just one
rod" that is capable of handling all of the different fishing
situations one may encounter in Alaska. Having said that, let's break
down rods into 3 basic categories and examine them a little closer.
Single-hand
rods for steelhead are
typically 9 to 10 feet long, for 7 or 8 weight line, and are designed
to be overhead cast with one hand. These rods are ideal for
dead-drift presentations and indicator fishing, and are easily toted
along the brushy stream banks of Alaska. Swinging can also be
accomplished on small streams with a single hander, but space is
needed for back casts. As the water gets bigger, the casting distance
also grows, and the single-hander is limited in its ability to get
large flies long distances in any fishing situations encountered.
Spey
rods, also called two-handed or two-handers,
are designed to be cast with...wait for it...two hands. Typically 12
to 15 feet in length, these rods have a grain-weight rating system to
match the line to the rod. Two-handed casting is accomplished by
loading the rod with the line on the water, resulting in a more
compact cast window and the need for less space behind the caster.
Spey rods are the prototypical swinging rods, and their ability to
cast long distances with a single motion lends itself well to the art
of the swung fly. Their length makes them a poor choice for some of
the smaller flows in Alaska, and it would be a chore to get a 15 foot
rod through the stream side brush, but they come into their own on
the larger rivers of the Alaska Peninsula and Kodiak Island.
Switch
rods are a relatively
new innovation, and they are designed to be cast in either
single-hand overhead, two-hand overhead, or two-hand Spey styles.
Typically 10 1/2 to 11 1/2 feet long for 7 or 8 weight line, the
switch rod is the closest thing to an all-around steelhead rod that
the Alaskan angler can get. Dead-drifters get enhanced control at
distance with a longer rod, swingers get the ability to deliver large
flies with Spey-style casts, they are fairly easy to tote through the
brushy stream corridors of Southeast Alaska, and they handle large
water fairly well. On the down side, they are slightly harder to
single-hand overhead cast than a true single-hand rod, and they won't
cast as far as a true Spey rod. Switch rods are fast becoming the
tool of choice for steelhead anglers in the know, so check one out
soon.
The ideal Reel
for steelhead angling should be able to hold a full line and at least
150 yards of 30 lb. backing. The spool should be of the large arbor
type to give the angler the ability to pick up large amounts of line
in a hurry, as steelhead are capable of blistering runs both to and
away from an angler. A good sealed drag system is a must, and an
exposed spool rim is a plus when the need arises to apply extra
pressure to big fish . One of the most common misconceptions about
drag systems is the notion that the drag on a steelhead reel needs to
be able to stop a truck. The best drags ( in our humble opinion)
should be measured both by low start-up inertia, or the amount of
force required to initiate movement, as well as smoothness of
operation. Some drag systems with high start-up inertia tend to
surge, leading to lost fish, and herky-jerky motions imparted by
rough drags can also result in heartbreak.
There are Lines
for all types of specialized applications in steehead fishing, but
luckily there are some all-around lines as well. For dead-drifting, a
full-floating line is the best choice as it gives the angler the most
direct line control. For swinging applications a full-sinking line is
occasionally used, but in more common usage are interchangeable
sink-tips of various lengths and densities. Multi-tip line systems
are rapidly gaining favor among steelheaders for their all-in-one
versatility. With these systems, the angler gets a running line
integrated to a weight-forward floating section that ends in a loop,
as well as up to 5 looped tips in various densities from full-float
to full-fast sink. Two-handed rods have their own line classes, with
lines being selected by grain weight and rod length. Many of these
lines are also multi-tip systems, and with new sinking line products
on the market an angler can make their own sink-tips to match up to
any fishing situation.
There are as many
different types of steelhead Flies
as there are anglers that fish for them. Over the years steelhead
have been caught on a wide range and variety of patterns, from the
simple yarn glo-bug to the astoundingly complex Jock Scott,
originally designed for Atlantic salmon. The moral of this story
is...have a wide selection. A few things to consider when selecting
flies for steelheading in Alaska:
-When in doubt, throw
pink. Probably responsible for more steelhead hookups than any other
single color.
-Have a wide range of
profiles handy, from the long skinny look of the MOAL leech down to
the compact roundness of the glo-bug.
-As with profiles, have a
range of sizes as well. Overcast or high water conditions dictate the
use of larger flies, and low clear water means the use of the
smallest stuff in the box.
-Don't be afraid of the
dark colors. Black and purple are responsible for many steelhead
hookups as well.
It might be cruddy
weather, the sun might not shine quite as much as it did in May, and
there might be slightly fewer fish...but they are steelhead. Fall
steelhead, the silver bullets that round out the sport fishing year
in Alaska. Fresh from the ocean, still willing to take a properly
presented fly, they represent both the beginning and the end - The
end of the angling year, the last of the wonderful opportunities that
Alaska has to offer as well as the beginnings of an angling
obsession, the quest to bring one of these rare and exquisite game
fish to hand.
STUFF WE LIKE
Rods-
Sage Z-Axis 6126 6wt
12'6" Two-hander
Sage Z-Axis 7110 7wt 11'
switch rod
Sage Z-Axis 8110 8wt 11'
switch rod
Sage VT2 890-4 8wt 9'
single hander
Winston BII-x 8100-4 8wt
10' single hander
Winston BII-MX 790-4 7wt
9' single hander
Reels-
Abel Super 7
Nautilus CCF No.8
Ross CLA 5
Galvan Torque T-8
Lines-
Rio Grand
full-floating line for single handers
Scientific Anglers Steelhead full-floating line for single
handers
Sage Indicator Taper
full-floating line for switch rods
Rio "Dredger
Versi-Tip" multi-tip line system for single handers
Rio "Skagit"
multi-tip line system for two handers
Flies-
Pick Yer Pocket - Orange
#2
Guide Intruder - Pink #1/0
Situk Steelhead 36 Fly Selection
Thunder Moal - Purple/Pink
#4
Steelhead Glo Bug -
Steelhead/Burnt Orange #2
Willie Nelson #2
10mm Troutbeads in Clear
Orange , Dark Roe , and Orange Pearl
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